Sicily by Campervan: Our Itinerary and a Few Culinary Tips

Today we’re taking you with us to Sicily, on what was the second trip aboard our campervan (you’ll find our first long trip here). We literally fell in love with this Italian region, both for its fantastic places and its culinary delights: it was 14 days in south-eastern Sicily spent between cannoli and heavenly beaches! Get comfortable and enjoy the read!

Itinerary

Day 1: We arrived in Messina, taking the ferry from Villa San Giovanni  late in the evening. We briefly visited the city before heading to Triscell Area Camping  in Sant’Alessio Siculo, a stopover area open all year round, 40 minutes from Messina, where we were warmly welcomed and even given a bag of fresh lemons as a gift (thanks, Captain!).

Day 2: In the morning we took a stroll through the small town of Sant’Alessio Siculo before moving on to Taormina. We parked in front of the station  to catch the bus up to the upper part of the city, but after half an hour’s wait we decided to walk up instead! Alternatively you can take the cable car  , at a cost of €3 one way.

Taormina is a pleasant city with stunning views, where the main attraction is the Ancient Theatre  , which also allows pets! After playing tourists among places full of history and the town’s little streets, we went down towards the beach of Isola Bella, then went back to the campervan, this time by bus, to head first to Giardini Naxos (perhaps worth a stop in summer? in winter you can skip it), then to Acireale’s Mulino beach, where we found a spot to sleep peacefully for free, lulled by the sea waves.

Day 3: The following day we moved to Acireale, parking in front of Bar Kennedy  to try the famous Sicilian granita: fully approved! To walk off breakfast we decided to visit the city on foot, starting from Villa Belvedere  and then continuing towards the centre, visiting the Cathedral Basilica of Maria SS. Annunziata and the Collegiate Basilica of San Sebastiano. In the afternoon we visited Aci Trezza and its Cyclops Islands, and Aci Castello with its castle. In the evening we moved to Catania to sleep at a spot a bit outside the city  .

Day 4: We could have reached Catania by bus, but we preferred to move with the campervan and park near the customs area  . A quiet, cheap spot close to the centre (and shaded). We got lost strolling around the city, which unfortunately isn’t the cleanest but is charming. Starting from the market, we headed to the square with the city’s symbol, the Elephant Fountain, then continued along the main street, Via Etnea, up to the gardens of Villa Bellini, from which you can enjoy a beautiful view of Etna. Finally we reached the Benedictine Monastery of San Nicolò l’Arena before heading back to the campervan.

Before leaving Catania we ordered fried fish at Ristorante Scirocco  . It was so delicious that we went back for seconds.

Day 5: We got moving early in the morning to reach the Valley of the Temples  . After finding a handy shaded car park, we headed to the historic site together with our animals (all dogs and cats are allowed as long as they’re kept on a leash).

After the visit and lunch we headed to Agricampeggio Capo Scalambri  , where we stayed a couple of days, making friends with other campervan travellers and trying, in the morning, the treats brought straight to the campsite by a friendly baker.

Day 6: We walked to nearby Punta Secca, famous for Montalbano’s house.

Day 7: We moved on to Scicli, getting lost in the little streets, admiring the Vigata police station, and climbing up to Castello dei Tre Cantoni, which we found closed but which offers a great view from outside!

Before reaching our next stop we simply had to try Sicily's number one hot cannolo  : delicious! For us it remains the best of all the ones we tried!

Next stop: Ragusa. We parked  and walked up to the upper part of the city, Ragusa Ibla, passing by the Cathedral of San Giorgio and the Palazzo Arezzo di Trifiletti  , arriving at the Giardino Ibleo. Walking among countless signs advertising “filled cannoli” made us hungry again, so we tried the cannolo from Biancomangiare  , filled with ricotta on the spot. A must if you pass through Ragusa.

Day 9: New day, new stop, this time it was Modica and its famous chocolate. We parked for free  and visited the city, climbing up to its various viewpoints, then in the afternoon moved on to visit Punta delle Formiche beach, where we stayed overnight for free.

Day 10: We enjoyed the sea in the morning, then after lunch moved on to Portopalo di Capo Passero and then to the most photographed village in this area: Marzamemi. We parked at the marina  and headed into the small village. Before heading back we stocked up on typical Sicilian products at Campisi  .

Day 11: We headed to Noto, famous for its flower festival (Infiorata). Unfortunately it wasn’t the right time of year, but the city is worth a visit even without the festival. We parked almost in the centre  , and before seeing the city we headed straight to a famous local café — how could we resist another cannolo? 

Satisfied and happy, we visited the city starting from Palazzo Nicolaci dei Principi di Villadorata  , then passing by the Church of San Domenico and the Cathedral of San Nicolò. We didn’t visit Palazzo Ducezio since we had to get back to our animals, but if you have some time to spare, it might be worth considering.

Leaving the city, we headed to Fontane Bianche, to a free spot with a sea view.

Day 12: Struck by this heavenly spot, we decided to stay put at Fontane Bianche.

Day 13: We moved on to Syracuse. We parked  and walked to Ortigia Island, where most of the attractions are concentrated, such as the Fountains of Diana and Arethusa, Piazza del Duomo and the Cathedral of the Nativity of Mary. Of course, before starting, we needed to “refuel”, so we stopped at Pasticceria Artale  to try a pistachio brioche. One “tuppo” (as they call it here) each was really too much, we overdid it with the sugar..! And so we started walking and visiting the whole city!

In the evening we moved to Agnone Bagni to stay overnight at a spot with a sea view.

Day 14: We dedicated the last day to a beach walk at Agnone Bagni, before heading in the evening to catch the ferry from Messina towards Reggio Calabria.

In Short

Day 1: Messina

Day 2: Sant’Alessio Siculo, Taormina and Giardini Naxos

Day 3: Aci Trezza, Acireale and Aci Castello

Day 4: Catania

Day 5: Valley of the Temples

Day 6-7: Punta Secca

Day 8: Scicli and Ragusa Ibla

Day 9: Modica and Punta delle Formiche

Day 10: Portopalo di Capo Passero and Marzamemi

Day 11: Noto and Fontane Bianche

Day 12: Fontane Bianche

Day 13: Syracuse

Day 14: Agnone Bagni, Messina

Long live Sicilian sweets!

When it comes to Sicily, you can’t skip talking about its cuisine! As true sweet-tooths, our attention focused mostly on desserts, so here are 4 recommendations that still make our mouths water just thinking about Sicily, plus a little spot to enjoy perfectly cooked fish.

1. Sicilian granita

At Bar Kennedy  in Acireale we tried one of the best Sicilian granitas!

2. Pistachio brioche

If you pass through Syracuse you absolutely must try the pistachio brioche from Pasticceria Artale  for a seriously loaded breakfast!

3. Cannolia’s hot cannolo

If you pass through Scicli you absolutely must try Sicily's number one hot cannolo  : delicious!

4. Sicily’s best cannolo

In 2023 it won the award for best Sicilian cannolo, and it fully deserves it! The cannolo from Caffè Sicilia  in Noto is truly worth it!

5. Catania’s street food

Just a stone’s throw from the city market you can enjoy excellent street food, cooked by the team at Scirocco  ! We ordered fried fish: truly delicious, so much so that we went back for seconds.

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