From the Windmills of La Mancha to Toledo: A Spectacular Campervan Tour!

Castile-La Mancha is a splendid central region of Spain, land of the adventures told by Cervantes, where Don Quixote tilts at windmills. We visited these areas coming from Andalusia before heading on to Madrid.

First, a bit of culture

The term “La Mancha” seems to come from the Arabic “al-Mansha”, meaning “the desert”, referring here not so much to a stretch of sand but to the depopulation of an area also affected by a climate decidedly more arid than other Spanish regions.

The region of Castile-La Mancha, despite having so much to offer, is one of the least visited in Spain: for us that was for the best! We drove undisturbed and parked in spectacular spots, among stretches of ochre and red earth dotted with olive trees and vines, ruined castles and windmills standing alone or all in a row. For nature lovers, this region also offers a surprising number of protected natural areas.

Our Ruta de Don Quijote from Córdoba to Toledo

To boost tourism, the Ruta de Don Quijote was established: a decidedly long route that lets you follow the adventures (and especially misadventures) of Don Quixote and his faithful Sancho Panza. It’s made up of 13 stops, and you need at least 7 days to see them all, which is why we recommend choosing which stops you want to make before setting off.

We only saw part of the route, namely the one going from Córdoba (our itinerary is just a click away) to Toledo, but that was enough to admire a surprising, different and fantastic Spain!

Sacro Convento y Castillo de Calatrava La Nueva

If we had to describe this fortress  of the Knights of Calatrava in one word, we’d say: wonderful! Though partly destroyed, it still lets you admire the convent’s great rose-window gateway and the walkway along the walls, offering a superb 360° view.

Getting there by campervan can be a bit tricky given the steep road, but the sunset and sunrise from the square out front gave us unique moments.

Price: €4 per person, payable in cash only.

Almagro

A city famous for its theatrical tradition, it offers a square with a very distinctive look, as well as a few genuine shops where you can buy the local cheese, which we highly recommend!

It’s the best cheese I’ve ever eaten in my life, and I’m 90 years old.

After reading this Google review about the shop Oro Siglo XVII, Queso de Oveja  , how could we not treat ourselves to a taste? Of course we rushed there right away! and were absolutely delighted.

Campo de Criptana

Here you’ll still find about ten windmills (34 originally) scattered around, among which you can stroll, especially admiring the play of light at sunset. The small village of white houses is worth a visit.

We stayed overnight for free right next to the windmills — a truly romantic spot.

Alcázar de San Juan

On this stretch of road you can visit a few windmills along a truly scenic road.

Consuegra

5 of the 12 windmills still have their complete mechanism, in particular “Sancho” (named after one of the main characters of the novel Don Quixote of La Mancha). All lined up in a row, they seem to protect the nearby Templar castle  .

The castle can only be visited with a guide (who doesn’t speak Italian), starting from €7.

Toledo

The region’s capital, this splendid city was the real revelation of this tour. It’s just an hour from Madrid, yet we liked it far more than the current capital.

Toledo had its golden age under Arab rule, up until the late 1400s, when following the Christian reconquest all Jews were expelled from Spain. In 1536 the city then lost its title of capital, transferred to Madrid. Toledo remained the world’s best producer of steel, making swords and knives.

The old part of the city, perched on top of a hill, is easily reached via an escalator or on foot depending on which side you arrive from, and can be visited in half a day.

We started our city tour from this free car park  and, reaching the historic centre right via the escalators, found ourselves in a maze of narrow streets like the beautiful Calle Alfileritos, with gateways of convents and monasteries.

In this area you simply must buy the marzipan sweets handmade by the nuns.

After trying a couple of typical almond-flour sweets, we reached the Museum of Santa Cruz behind Plaza de Zocodover, greeted the statue of Cervantes and headed to the Alcázar, the “castle”, which was ruled by various figures throughout history.

It’s in one wing of the Alcázar that you’ll find the Biblioteca de Castilla-La Mancha: we recommend going in, because from its café you can admire the city from above for free.

Leaving the highest point behind, we headed towards the wonderful Gate of the Lions and the Cathedral of Toledo  , which can be visited for €10 or for free Monday to Friday from 8am to 9.30am.

From here we reached Plaza del Ayuntamiento (the town hall) before heading to the Church of San Tomé and the Jewish quarter, home to the Synagogue and the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes, all the way to the Puente de San Martín, from where we headed back towards Puerta de Bisagra.

If you love panoramic viewpoints, don’t miss heading to this Mirador  , from where at sunset you can admire a wonderful play of light over the city and the river surrounding it.

Typical dishes of Castile-La Mancha

La Mancha isn’t just windmills, castles, exploits and breathtaking views, but also a delicious cuisine with its own typical dishes. If, like us, you’re a foodie, you can’t miss trying these four typical dishes!

1. Lamb, cooked in countless ways (roasted, stewed, pan-fried)
2. The “a la magra” version of the classic “tortilla”, the Spanish omelette
3. Manchego, the cheese typical of La Mancha
4. “Mazapán” or marzipan, sweets dating back to the era of Arab rule

Is it doable by campervan?

This region is truly pleasant to visit by campervan, thanks to easy-to-drive roads, very little traffic and breathtaking views. If you haven’t already added it to your travel plans, we recommend considering it, and if you’d like to picture it a little through our eyes, here’s the dedicated video.

Our maps