Japan in 12 Days: Osaka-Kyoto-Kumano Kodo Between Temples and Spirituality

If you’re looking for an original Japan itinerary that goes beyond the classic tourist routes, this trip is perfect for you. Far from the crowds of Tokyo and the more beaten paths, this 12-day itinerary from Osaka to Kyoto combines spirituality, wild nature, monastic temples and authentic travel experiences.

Perfect for anyone who loves walking through sacred forests, sleeping in temples, discovering ancient fermentation centres and getting lost in local markets, this route touches hidden gems like Yuasa, Nachi, Kumano Hongu, Koyasan and Nara, before wrapping up in magical Kyoto.

Whether you choose train, campervan or car, every day has a different pace: from the silent spirituality of temples to the scent of green tea, from curious deer to bamboo forests, from hot-spring terraces overlooking the ocean to crowded markets.

Itinerary: how to read this guide

This itinerary is organised day by day and includes:

• Travel times by car and train
• What to do: attractions, temples, experiences
• Where to stay: tips for ryokan, shukubo and campervan areas
• Getting around: details on cars, trains and local shuttles

Days 1-2: Osaka, between street food and pop culture

Getting there and around

Osaka is easily reached by Shinkansen (bullet train) from Japan’s major cities, by plane from Kansai International Airport (KIX), or by overnight bus from Tokyo.

Tip: if you’re renting a car or campervan, do it from day 3 onwards. Osaka is best explored by train and metro.

Where to stay

The best neighbourhoods for the city centre are:

• Namba: lively, busy, near Dotonbori
• Umeda: modern, well-connected stations
• Tennoji: more local and quiet

read also What to See in Osaka in One Day (plus a few extras not to miss)

What to do in Osaka

Namba and Dotonbori: the beating heart of Osaka lights up with giant glowing signs, vendors shouting out local specialities and the unmistakable smell of takoyaki (fried octopus balls). Stroll among the shops, taste everything and let yourself get swept up in the typically Japanese orderly chaos.

Kuromon Ichiba Market: here you’ll discover regional specialities like fresh crab, fugu (pufferfish, only served by certified chefs) and creative street food. It’s less crowded in the morning.

Osaka Castle: surrounded by a beautiful park, it’s ideal for a morning stroll or a sunset visit. The foundations date back to the 16th century.

Sumiyoshi Taisha: one of Japan’s oldest shrines (founded around 211 AD), with traditional pre-Buddhist architecture. It sees far less mass tourism than Fushimi Inari.

Ukiyo Koji: a tiny alley that recreates the atmosphere of old Edo-era Osaka, with vintage shops and staff in kimono.

Day 3: Wakayama and Yuasa, a journey back in time among castles and traditions

Getting around

• Car: 1h from Osaka to Wakayama, 1h from Wakayama to Yuasa
• Trains: Osaka → Wakayama (1h, JR Hanwa Line) → Yuasa (1h, JR Kisei Line)

Recommended stops

Wakayama: visit the Castle overlooking the city and Kimiidera Temple with a spectacular view over the bay. If you’re travelling by campervan, there’s a free rest area near the port.

Yuasa: this tiny town is the heart of Japanese fermentation and is the birthplace of soy sauce. The historic centre is a dive into the past, with wooden Edo-style houses, artisan workshops and authentic little shops.

Don’t miss a visit to Yuasa Soy Sauce Co., founded in 1881: you can watch the traditional fermentation process and buy barrels of artisanal soy sauce. It’s a fascinating experience that few tourists know about.

Where to stay

• Traditional guesthouses in central Yuasa
• Campervan rest area at Shirarahama (if you want to get closer to the next stop)

Day 4: Sea, markets and the call of the Kumano Kodo

Getting around

• Car: Yuasa → Shirarahama (1h) → Nachi (2h)
• Trains: Yuasa → Shirahama (1h) + local bus/taxi; Shirahama → Nachi (2h by train + bus)

What to do

Shirarahama: a brilliant white beach surrounded by rocky cliffs, with hot-spring terraces right on the sea (onsen with ocean views). It’s a surreal experience: soaking in a hot spring while the sun sets over the Pacific Ocean.

In the morning visit the Toretore Ichiba (fish market), where you can eat super-fresh, just-caught fish at prices you won’t believe.

On the road: the coastal stretch towards Nachi is one of the most beautiful in Japan, with scenic curves, small fishing villages and quiet bays where time seems to have stopped.

Where to stay

• Ryokan and guesthouses in Nachi or along the coast (near Katsuura)
• Many have private onsen overlooking the ocean

Day 5: Nachi, the charm of the sacred among forests and waterfalls

Getting around

Nachi is best explored on foot. If you arrive by train, get off at Kii-Katsuura and take a bus or taxi to the temple area (about 20 min).

Not to be missed

Kumano Nachi Taisha: one of the three great shrines of the Kumano Kodo (a Japanese religious heritage site), dedicated to the spirits of the mountains and waterfalls. The atmosphere is mystical, especially in the morning when mist wraps around the trees.

Seiganto-ji: a Buddhist temple in fiery red next to the shrine, with an iconic view of Nachi-no-Taki Falls, 133 metres high. It’s one of the most sacred waterfalls in Japan.

Daimon-zaka: if you love walking, follow this ancient paved road through the forest, once walked by pilgrims and monks. It’s the perfect prelude to the real Kumano Kodo.

The Kumano Kodo: Japan’s sacred trek

If you have extra time (2-4 days), the Kumano Kodo is a transformative experience. It’s one of the oldest pilgrimage routes in the world, walked by monks and pilgrims for over 1,000 years.

Main routes:

• Nakahechi Route (2-3 days): the most popular and accessible route, 35 km between temples and mountains. Suitable for intermediate-level hikers.
• Kohechi Route (2 days): wilder and more scenic, crossing mountain ridges with spectacular views.
• Okuhechi Route (1-2 days): the shortest and least crowded, perfect if you’re short on time.
• Daimon-zaka (1-2 hours): perfect as a light introduction to Kumano Kodo trekking.

How to organise it:

• Daily distance: 10-20 km depending on the route
• Difficulty: medium (long climbs, but well signposted)
• Recommended season: April-May, September-November (avoid the scorching summer and snowy winter)
• Hostels along the way: traditional guesthouses and minshuku to sleep in between stages
• Guides: available through Kumano Kodo Guides (kumano-guide.com) or local agencies

What to bring: a light backpack (10-15 kg), hiking boots, plenty of water, poles for the climbs.

Travel tip

Staying here for a night lets you experience the sites in silence, before the organised tour groups arrive (mostly between 10am and 2pm).

⚠️ Important: Kumano Kodo replaces the itinerary, it doesn’t add to it

If you decide to do the full Kumano Kodo trek (for example the 2-3 day Nakahechi Route), you’ll need to significantly reorganise the 12-day itinerary. You can’t do a 3-day trek AND visit every stop in the programme.

Possible scenarios:

1. Light trek (Daimon-zaka, 1-2 hours): keep the whole itinerary
2. Okuhechi Route (1-2 days): shorten Kyoto to 2 days, cut Osaka to 1 day
3. Full Nakahechi Route (2-3 days): extend the trip to 15-17 days overall, or drop Osaka/Nara

Tip: decide early on whether the priority is the spiritual trek (do the full Kumano Kodo) or the broader cultural experience (keep to 12 days and only do the temple-access stages).

Day 6: Riverside hot-spring terraces and the journey towards Koyasan

Getting around

• Car: Nachi → Hongu (1h30) → Koyasan (2h)
• Trains+bus: possible but long: Kii-Katsuura → Shingu → Hongu (bus) → Gokurakubashi + cable car to Koyasan

Two options for the afternoon

Option 1 - Senninburo at Kawayu Onsen (January-February, when the river level is low): A large tub dug directly into the riverbed, where you can soak in a hot spring surrounded by wild nature. It’s completely free and one of a kind in the world. Bring a torch if you go at sunset.

Option 2 - Kumano Hongu Taisha: The third great shrine of the Kumano Kodo, located at the heart of Japan’s most important spiritual route. Ancient pilgrimage paths start from here. The trail museum, with historic maps, is also worth a visit.

In the afternoon: the journey to Koyasan

The roads climbing up to Koyasan are breathtaking, with curves zigzagging through misty mountains and ancient cedar forests.

Where to stay: the shukubo

Choose a shukubo (accommodation inside a Buddhist temple). It’s a chance to experience:

• Authentic monastic hospitality
• A shojin ryori dinner (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, a refined art)
• Morning meditation with the monks (optional, but recommended)

Day 7: Koyasan and the descent towards Nara

Getting around

• Car: Koyasan → Nara (2h)
• Train: Koyasan (cable car) → Gokurakubashi → Osaka → Nara (3-4h total)

What to see in Koyasan

Okunoin: Japan’s largest cemetery, immersed in an almost sacred silence. Walk among the 250,000 graves towards the mausoleum of the monk Kobo Daishi (founder of Shingon Buddhism in the 9th century). It’s a contemplative experience.

Danjo Garan: the main temple complex with the famous red Konpon Daito pagoda, a symbol of Koyasan. The structures date back to the 9th century and are surrounded by cedar forests.

In the afternoon: heading to Nara

Nara is one of Japan’s ancient capitals and deserves a dedicated visit. It’s easily reached by bus or train.

Day 8: Nara at dawn and afternoon in Kyoto

What to do in Nara at dawn

Todai-ji and the Great Buddha: visit it early in the morning, before the tourists create chaos. The 15-metre bronze Buddha is one of the most important sites in Japan.

Lesser temples: Kasuga Taisha in the woods is less crowded than Todai-ji and just as fascinating, with hundreds of stone lanterns creating a magical atmosphere.

Hidden gardens: Yoshiki-en and Isui-en are beautiful, little-known landscape gardens, perfect for a slow morning stroll.

In the afternoon: on to Kyoto

• Train: 40 min from Nara to Kyoto (JR Nara Line)
• Car: about 1h

Days 9-10-11: Kyoto, between classics and hidden corners

Kyoto is the true spiritual soul of Japan. The city should be experienced slowly, over a cup of matcha in a traditional teahouse, an evening walk through alleys lit by paper lanterns, and dinners in hidden restaurants where the menu is written only in Japanese.

The unmissable classics

Fushimi Inari Taisha: the famous red torii gates winding for kilometres up a mountain are breathtaking. Go very early (7am) or late (from 6pm) to avoid the crowds.

Kiyomizu-dera: a Buddhist temple with a wooden platform jutting out over the city. The streets of Gion around it are perfect for shopping and street food.

Golden Pavilion (Kinkaku-ji): one of the most photographed sites in Japan. Yes, it’s crowded, but the beauty is real.

Arashiyama: the bamboo forest is extraordinary. Go at sunset, when the light filters through the stalks.

Nishiki Market: visit it early in the morning (7-8am) or late (from 6pm) to avoid the tourist chaos. It’s a feast of colours, flavours and smells.

Philosopher’s Path: a walk along a canal lined with cherry trees (beautiful in spring). Perfect at sunset.

Unusual discoveries

Kurama-Kibune Trek: a wooded trail of 2-3 hours connecting two mountain temples in the middle of the forest. It’s little known and magical.

Daitoku-ji: a Zen complex with quiet, uncrowded meditation gardens, perfect for contemplation.

Day 12: Back to Osaka and departure

Return to Osaka

• Fast train: 20-30 min from Kyoto (JR Tokaido Shinkansen or Hankyu Line)
• Car: about 1h

If you have a flight

From Kansai Airport (KIX):

• From Kyoto: 1h30 by car or Haruka Express train (75 min, inexpensive)
• From Osaka: 45 min by car, 60 min by train

If you have a few hours before your flight, stop in Umeda: go up the Sky Building for a 360° view of the city.

FAQ and practical tips for vanlife in Japan

Car and campervan rental

• Recommended: yes, from Osaka onwards, especially to visit Nachi, Hongu and Koyasan
• Where: companies like Nippon Rent-A-Car, Times Car Rental, Orix
• Costs: manual car ~€25-35/day, campervan ~€100-150/day

Driving in Japan

• International driving permit: required. You can get one from the Motorizzazione Civile (you’ll need your Italian licence + passport + photo)
• Driving: on the left
• Documents: passport + international driving permit + visa (if required)

By the way, if you want to learn more about Japanese vanlife, we’ve written some dedicated guides:

• Campervan stops in Japan: much more than a parking lot  (in Italian)
• Japanese baths: differences between onsen, sento, footbath and ofuro  (in Italian)

Navigation and maps

• Recommended apps: Google Maps (works well), NaviTime (preferred by locals, more reliable)
• Motorway payments: cash or credit card. Motorways are NOT free and are fairly expensive (e.g. Osaka-Kyoto ~€25)

Campervan stops and vanlife

• Apps: Park4Night, iOverlander
• Free areas: many along the Wakayama coast
• Public toilets: widespread and free, often with hot water
• Accessible onsen: almost all accept day visitors
• Fuel: konbini and petrol stations everywhere
• Winter: watch the weather in the mountains (snow, fog)

Food and specialities

• Yuasa: artisanal soy sauce
• Osaka: takoyaki, okonomiyaki, udon
• Nachi-Shirahama: fresh seafood
• Koyasan: shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine)
• Kyoto: kaiseki, yudofu (tofu in hot broth), sushi
• Nara: kakinoha-zushi (sushi wrapped in persimmon leaf)

Have questions?

If you have any doubts about this itinerary, train schedules, where to park your campervan or how to book a shukubo, don’t hesitate to write to us in the comments or by email: we’re always happy to reply.

Happy travels among Japan’s temples and sacred mountains! 🏔️⛩️